How To Clean Smith And Wesson Revolver Model 63

I finally got some range time today and was able to shoot this nifty piddling S&W model 63-5 that I bought dorsum at the terminate of February before all this craziness started.
Back then I did a quick basic cleaning. Ran a brush and patches through the bore and cylinder holes, wiped everything downwards, and put a drib of oil on a couple spots.

Now that I've shot information technology I'm ready to do a more than thorough cleaning job to take care of what I dirtied upwards today as well as any gunk from the previous owner.

I've undone the screw in a higher place the trigger on the right side and removed the (crane?) and cylinder. Going by the youtube video I watched, I should be able to turn that extractor pin clockwise and it'll loosen upward. It doesn't seem to want to only I've only tried it by paw no tools yet, then that'southward what I'm looking for now is advice on how to get this matter apart for cleaing. Any tips on getting information technology apart and things to try or avoid are welcome.
I think some soft aluminum jaws clamped into vise and so turn the cylinder ( I think) real assist volition be along in mins. Stand by!
I don't know near the model 63 simply on many current Due south&W's that screw turns counter clockwise to loosen.
Howdy
Frankly, I suggest yous don't endeavour to disassemble the cylinder.

It is easy to damage it. The ratchet is brazed to the ejector rod, it is piece of cake to bend or damage it.

Unless the thread is loose already, I never endeavour to disassemble the cylinder. If the thread is loose I will go ahead and tighten information technology, but I never take the whole thing autonomously. Don't forget, modern Smiths have a reverse thread holding the cylinder together. Older ones accept a standard correct hand thread.

I but button the extractor rod all the mode in, and clean under the ratchet. Lots of Q-tips and solvent, and canned air. Keep blowing and swabbing and you will remove almost all the fouling. What you lot don't get doesn't really thing.

You are probably going to want to scrub all the fouling off the front face up of the cylinder also.

You probably don't want to hear this, but I never try to scrub the carbon rings off the front end of the cylinder. Simply give them a skilful brushing with Hoppes #nine and a bronze bristle brush and go out it at that. No affair what you do, the carbon rings on the confront of the cylinder will return the next time you lot shoot information technology, and they volition exist just as stubborn to attempt to remove.

This Model 63 is just one of many S&Due west revolvers whose cylinders I don't detach. Besides one of several stainless Smiths that I don't try to scrub the carbon rings off the front end of the cylinder.
Ok cheers. If I think correct I called S&W when I got this thing and they told me it was manufactured in like 2016 or 2018 so it's non likewise old. It doesn't seem to be too gunked up and so it didn't require much. I took the cylinder out and cleaned things up a bit but didn't bother with taking out the ejector and all that stuff. I can detail strip and reassemble a Beretta in my sleep with my eyes closed but I honestly don't know a whole lot about bicycle guns. Are they pretty durable? I mean is it difficult to screw it up past shooting information technology unless you're a complete idiot?
I shot both the 63 and my Browning Buckmark today. I've always been a fan of my 22 autoloaders but I'1000 honestly kind of liking the idea of the revolvers a lot more. No extra money to spend on magazines, no ejection problems (which I had with the Bucky today), whatsoever 22 rounds (s/l/lr/cb/etc) will work. I'm seriously considering just selling off the Browning and looking at a 10 shot revolver to go on with the 63. Maybe a Ruger GP100 or SP101.
S&W has a 10 shot .22 also, model 617. They are very nice.
You can get speed loaders for the .22 revolvers.
I was looking at that also. The GP100 and 617 practice both look kind of large. I don't have huge easily then I don't want something that'due south going to exist uncomfortable. I was kind of eyeing the Ruger SP101 too. It's the same as the 63 though with 8 shots and but an inch longer butt, so I don't know that it'southward that much different from the 63 to warrant another purchase. If I tin get a skillful grip on one of the bigger 10 shot ones though that might be nice to have. I remember I'll probably stick with a double action. The singles tin simply fun only I've never been a big fan of loading and unloading them.
Nigh Smiths had the extractor thread inverse to a left handed thread in the early 1960s.
Are they durable? I have Smith & Wesson revolvers that are over 100 years old and I still shoot them.

I would say they are durable.
The 617 is built on the One thousand frame. Yes, it is bigger than your J frame Model 63.
In this photograph, for size comparison, height right is an N frame Triple Lock, next downward is a M frame 38 Military and Constabulary. Adjacent down on the correct is a J fame Chief's Special (the same size as your Model 63.

On the upper left is an I frame 38 Regulation Police.

Bottom left is a tiny 1000 frame Ladysmith.
But to add together a data indicate, I wea medium size gloves and I find both very comfortable to shoot. Of course I too manage ok with N frames simply they're definitely a bit large for me.
I've got a pre-model x 38 from 1948 that I tin can grip pretty well. I concluded up with a model 66 combat magnum non too long ago that'due south a bit large, but I put a set of the Altamont Combat stocks on and that makes information technology pretty nice. (I'thousand a sucker for wood grips. I also have a set of the Altamont Battleur ones on the 63 and it feels absolutely perfect to me)
I've cycled through to this bespeak likewise...and don't forget another benefit of non having to chase downwards brass.

I never remove the cylinder in my M63 or whatsoever other revolver for purposes of cleaning.
Agreed! I cleaned upwards the buckmark this morning and just put information technology on Armslist. I'm merely prepare for a change. I will still need a second 22 for the lady or the kiddo. And now I'grand looking at S&Westward 617s and Ruger SP101s and GP100s. I'm hearing nightmares about SP101 triggers and the GP seems a little large. That 4" 617 has got me thinking though. Bigger than the 63 simply non ridiculous like the 6" one.
The M617 is on the list. 4" for me, too.
Gave my Model 63 with box & papers to my grandson last yr. He likes it.
Both the pre-model 10 and the Model 66 are Yard-frames revolvers and will accept the same size grip frames. The grips themselves could exist different size.
In that location is one caveat to the above statement, if the Model 66 is fairly new, information technology will probably have a circular butt grip frame while the pre-model 10 will have a foursquare butt grip frame. You should be able to notice smaller grips for the Model 66 for a circular barrel grip frame.

Fortunately, there is a wide variety of pick of grips for Southward&Westward Thou-frame revolvers.

The S&Westward K-frame is a prissy size revolver. My married woman, who has small hands shoots a S&W 586 (L-frame revolver) which has the aforementioned grip frame every bit the K-frame revolvers.
Put some empty shells into the cylinder if you're going to effort and unscrew the ejector rod to protect the ejector ring.

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